Part 11 of 11Switzerland, 2018

The Last Days in Zurich

Back in Zurich for a last afternoon together, then on my own again, with a morning at the Rhine Falls, a long train ride to a snowy Grindelwald, and a final day in the city before my flight home.

The Rhine Falls in winter, with white water pouring around a tall rock in the middle of the river, a flag on top of the rock and old buildings on the bank beyond.
The Rhine Falls.

On Tuesday, 6 February, we left Lucerne and went back to Zurich, where the trip had started. We stayed at the Ibis Zurich City West again, the hotel we had come to on our first day.

It was our last day travelling together. My wife would fly home the next morning, and I would stay on for two more days.

A last afternoon together

The afternoon was bright and sunny. We went to the Grossmünster, the church with two towers in the old town.

The Grossmünster in Zurich, a large pale stone church with two towers topped with domed caps, beside a red-spired tower, under a deep blue sky.
The Grossmünster.

Near the lake, in the big open square in front of the opera house, people were out in the sunshine.

A wide paved square with people walking and sitting on chairs in the sun, in front of the white, columned front of the Zurich opera house.
The square in front of the opera house.

Later, we came to the Swiss National Museum, a building like a castle, with towers and turrets around a courtyard near the main station.

The courtyard of the Swiss National Museum, with a tall stone tower, steep roofs and pointed turrets, and a few people walking in the sun.
The Swiss National Museum.

Rhine Falls

On the morning of Wednesday, 7 February, my wife made her own way to the airport and flew home. I was on my own again.

I had booked a half-day tour from Zurich to the Rhine Falls through Klook. By about ten o’clock, I was there.

Above the falls stood an old castle, with a stone gate tower carrying a painted coat of arms.

A stone gate tower with a steep tiled roof and a painted blue and white coat of arms above the arch, under a grey sky.
The gate tower of the castle above the falls.

From the paths among the trees, I could see a railway bridge crossing the river just above the falls, with the water already white and fast underneath it.

A stone railway bridge with several arches crossing a fast, white river, seen through bare trees and ivy.
The railway bridge above the falls.

From above, the river spread out into a wide, calm pool below the falls, with the water still churning where it landed.

A wide pool of green-grey water below the falls, with white foam spreading out across it, and a long railway viaduct and buildings on the far bank.
The pool below the falls.

In the middle of the falls stood a tall rock with a flag on top. The river poured around it on both sides.

Across the pool, boats waited at the landing stages on the other side.

Boats moored at a landing stage on the far bank of the river below the falls, with a long viaduct and bare trees on the hill behind.
Boats on the far side of the pool.

Then I went down the steps to the viewing platforms close to the water. Down there, the falls were loud, and the spray hung in the air like mist. One small platform stuck out right over the water, with a red and white flag on it.

A small viewing platform with a railing jutting out over a mass of white, churning water, with a red and white flag on a pole.
A platform over the water.
The Rhine Falls seen from close to the water, a wall of white water and spray, with the rocks and buildings on top only just visible through the mist.
The falls in the spray.

By half past eleven, we were on the road again. From the window, I saw a border post with a German flag beside it, and later a small old town along a misty river.

A long ride to Grindelwald

When the tour was over, I still had the afternoon, so I took the train towards the mountains, to Grindelwald. It was a long way to go for a short visit.

By two o’clock, the train was running beside a lake, with the mountains on the far side hidden in low cloud.

A grey lake under low cloud, with a single boat on the water, seen from a train window above a railing.
A lake from the train.

Later, the train climbed up a valley, past wooden chalets on snowy meadows.

Old wooden chalets with snowy roofs on a snowy meadow at the foot of a dark, forested slope.
Chalets on the way up to Grindelwald.

Grindelwald

By about five past three, I was at Grindelwald station. From the station, the mountains rose straight up behind the village, with their tops in the cloud.

A huge snowy mountain rising behind the village street and car park near Grindelwald station, with its summit in cloud.
The mountain behind the station.

The main street was lined with wooden chalets, shops and hotels, with snow piled along the edges of the road.

The main street of Grindelwald, with wooden chalets and shops with balconies on both sides, and a great snowy mountain filling the sky at the end.
The main street.

I walked along the street for a while. Some of the buildings were painted in bright colours.

A bright orange chalet-style building with dark shutters on the main street, with a snowy mountain rising behind it in cloud.
An orange house on the main street.
A large chalet with a decorated yellow and red front, green shutters, flags above the door and café tables outside.
A painted chalet.

Away from the shops, the houses were older, dark wooden chalets with green shutters and snow on their roofs, under tall trees.

A dark wooden chalet with green shutters below a tall old fir tree, with a snowy mountain in the cloud behind.
An old chalet under the trees.

I followed a road out along the edge of the village, between banks of snow, with the valley opening out ahead.

A road leading out of the village between a stone wall and a high bank of snow, with bare trees, chalets and snowy mountains ahead.
A road out of the village.

I did not stay long, and soon I was on my way back.

The last day

Thursday, 8 February, was my last day in Switzerland. My flight was late in the evening, so in the morning I went out to Zurich Airport first, checked in my luggage, and then came back into the city without it.

There was a little fresh snow on the ground. Up on the hill above the old town, the university buildings had snow on their roofs.

A large stone university building with a curved, columned front and a dome, with snow on the roofs and on the ground.
A university building in the snow.

A museum of ancient sculpture

Nearby, I visited a museum full of copies of ancient Greek and Roman sculpture. The statues stood around the rooms in rows, under big windows, with carved friezes on the walls above them.

A gallery with copies of ancient statues, including a Roman emperor in armour with his arm raised and a helmeted goddess with a spear, below carved friezes, with a model of an ancient city in a glass case in front.
Statues and friezes.
A bright room with tall arched windows, filled with copies of ancient statues of figures standing on plinths.
A room of statues.

I also went to the university’s Zoological Museum, in a grand old building nearby.

The stone front of a large old building with a green dome, a tall arched entrance, statues of reclining figures on either side and display cases by the door.
The Zoological Museum building.

Later, from the hill, I looked down over the roofs of the old town, with a church spire rising above them.

Bare branches framing a view down over snowy roofs to a church with a tall green spire and the city beyond, under a grey sky.
Looking down over the old town.

Back to the airport

By twenty past four, I was back at the airport, up on the viewing terrace, watching the planes on the stands.

A large SWISS aircraft standing at a gate at Zurich Airport, under a grey evening sky.
Zurich Airport.

The light was going, and the big windows on the terrace had turned dark, like mirrors.

A dark window at the airport reflecting the evening sky and clouds, with the silhouette of a person taking a photograph, and white lettering about tickets and tours.
A dark window on the viewing terrace.

I had arrived at this airport less than two weeks earlier, on my way to meet my wife. Now I was leaving from it on my own.