Part 1 of 3China, 2009–2010

My first days in Chongqing

Christmas in Chongqing, unfamiliar streets, a language barrier and a small act of honesty that stayed with me.

Hongyadong at night, rows of traditional stilted buildings with curved roofs outlined in warm yellow lights and stacked on top of one another.
Hongyadong at night.

In late December 2009, I made my first trip to China. I flew alone from Singapore to Chongqing, where I met up with my girlfriend at the time. We travelled together during the rest of the trip, including visits to Chengdu, Leshan and Mount Emei.

Looking back after almost seventeen years, I realise how much of that journey I’ve forgotten. But a few small experiences have stayed with me, and the photographs have helped bring back places whose details had faded.

Chongqing at Christmas

My photographs show Chongqing during the Christmas season, with decorations and concert banners around the city.

A lit Christmas display at night: a giant golden crown on a red column, Santa Claus figures and snow-covered model houses, beside a tall sculpture of stacked wooden houses strung with coloured lights, with people seen from behind in silhouette.
A Christmas display at night.

One photograph shows the Great Hall of the People, with a banner advertising a Christmas concert. Another shows People’s Square, where a large advertisement announces a concert welcoming the New Year in 2010.

The Great Hall of the People in Chongqing, a domed building with green-tiled roofs and white balustrades under a grey sky, with a long red banner in Chinese across its front.
The Great Hall of the People, with a banner for a Christmas concert.
A wide paved square in grey haze with a painted ceremonial gateway, trees and people walking, the curved glass front of a museum behind, and a large banner on the right reading “2010” in front of Chinese characters.
People's Square, with a banner for a 2010 New Year concert.

Those little details have helped me establish when the trip actually happened. For years, I had labelled the photographs as 2008, but looking at them again made me realise the journey was around Christmas 2009.

In the evening photographs, Hongyadong is illuminated against the night sky. Its buildings appear stacked above the road, with rows of golden lights outlining the traditional architecture.

The lit buildings of Hongyadong seen from above, with a busy road running beside them through the evening haze and tall city buildings behind.
Hongyadong and the road below it.

I don’t remember every place we walked through that evening, but I remember the experience of visiting China for the first time. The photographs remind me how much of Chongqing we managed to see.

Looking up at tall city buildings at night, lit gold on one side and covered in bright advertising screens and neon signs on the other, under a hazy sky.
City streets at night.

A language barrier and a small act of honesty

One thing I do remember clearly is how difficult the language could be.

During my time in Chongqing, I helped an elderly grandmother buy medicine from a neighbourhood pharmacy.

The lady at the counter told me the price was 3 RMB. I misunderstood her and handed over 30 RMB instead.

She returned the extra money.

It sounds like such a small incident now, but I’ve remembered it all these years. I was travelling in a country where I couldn’t communicate easily, and that simple exchange left me with a very good impression of the neighbourhood.

It wasn’t a famous attraction or anything I had planned to experience. It was just an ordinary moment that stayed with me.

A meal I haven’t forgotten

Not all my memories of Chongqing were quite so pleasant.

One day, after eating fish, I developed a bad allergic reaction.

I can’t remember the restaurant or exactly what happened afterward, but I remember the experience well enough that it has never completely faded.

Food was certainly part of the journey. Looking through the photographs, there are several pictures of hot pot, including one with the familiar divided pot.

A divided hot pot on a restaurant table: a ring of red, chilli-filled broth around a smaller pot of clear soup, with plates of sliced meat and vegetables around it.
A divided hot pot.
A hand holding bamboo chopsticks in a pot of red, chilli-filled broth, with plates of sliced meat and tripe on the table beyond.
Hot pot, another meal.

I can’t confidently place every meal or remember what we ordered, so I’ll let the photographs speak for that part of the trip.

Laojundong, a temple on the hillside

Another set of photographs led me back to a place whose name I wouldn’t have remembered on my own: Laojundong.

The pictures show a Taoist temple on a hillside in Chongqing, with an incense burner, stone carvings and a painted gateway.

One of the signs identifies a hall containing Ming dynasty stone carvings.

A painted gateway with red lanterns and curved green and red roofs, its blue sign reading “Hall of Ming Dynasty Stone Carvings” in Chinese, set against a carved rock face, with visitors seen from behind in front of it.
The hall of Ming dynasty stone carvings at Laojundong.
Pink, yellow and red incense sticks burning in a stone trough in a temple courtyard, smoke drifting towards red walls and visitors seen from behind.
Incense at Laojundong.

I don’t have a particular story to tell about that visit. But looking at those photographs today, I’m glad I captured the temple and some of its smaller details.

They show another side of Chongqing beyond the busy streets and illuminated buildings.

Looking back

When I think about my first days in China, two things stand out.

One was the difficulty of communicating in an unfamiliar language. The other was how a simple act of honesty at a neighbourhood pharmacy could leave such a lasting impression.

The photographs bring back Chongqing’s streets, Hongyadong at night, the food and the temples. But the pharmacy incident is something I remember without needing a photograph.

From Chongqing, our journey continued to other places in Sichuan, including Leshan and Mount Emei.

Those visits would leave me with another memory that has stayed with me ever since.