Part 3 of 4Beijing, 2018

A Morning at the Forbidden City

A small-group tour begins at Tiananmen Square, our guide gets us past an enormous queue, and we walk north through the Forbidden City's vast courtyards, halls and gardens with our young son.

The Meridian Gate of the Forbidden City, a great red wall with a long double-roofed hall on top and pavilions on the wings either side, with crowds of visitors gathered at its foot.
The Meridian Gate.

On 28 September 2018, we had a full day of sightseeing planned in Beijing. After spending the previous few days mostly around Sanlitun, we were finally going to visit two of China’s most famous landmarks: the Forbidden City and the Great Wall.

We had booked a small-group tour, with a minibus picking us up from the InterContinental Beijing Sanlitun. For the morning, though, it was just my wife, our son and me with the guide, so we effectively had him to ourselves. Another couple joined the tour later, for the trip to the Great Wall.

Our first stop was Tiananmen Square, followed by the Forbidden City.

Tiananmen Square in the morning, with visitors taking photographs on the wide paved square, a flower display at the left and the red Tiananmen Gate with its yellow-roofed tower in the distance.
Tiananmen Square.

A Pleasant Surprise at the Entrance

When we arrived, there was an enormous queue of people waiting to enter.

My first thought was how much time we might end up spending in that line. We had a young child with us and a full day of sightseeing ahead, so the prospect of standing around for ages wasn’t particularly appealing.

A wide paved avenue lined with trees and red-roofed stalls, with visitors walking towards a palace gate in the distance.
The tree-lined approach to the palace.

But our guide knew exactly where to go. He handled the tickets, showed them at the right entrance and, within what felt like seconds, led us through.

I think we may have paid extra for some kind of express entry, but I can’t remember for certain.

I couldn’t believe how easy he made it.

One moment I was looking at the long queue and wondering how much time we were going to lose. The next, we were already inside.

That was certainly a good start to the day.

Inside the Forbidden City

Once inside, I was struck by just how enormous the Forbidden City was.

A dense crowd of visitors seen through a red gateway, facing a great double-roofed hall on a white marble terrace across a courtyard.
Crowds before one of the great halls.

We walked through vast courtyards, past imposing halls and beautiful traditional architecture. Everywhere I looked, there seemed to be another building, another courtyard or another remarkable detail.

A tall red wall topped by a two-storey pavilion with golden roofs, above a carved white marble balustrade.
A pavilion above the red walls.
A wide paved courtyard edged by a curving white marble balustrade and long halls with golden roofs.
One of the courtyards.

The photographs show the grand palace halls, stone terraces, decorated rooftops and pathways stretching through the complex. But photographs don’t quite capture the feeling of standing there.

Two large halls with golden roofs facing each other across a broad courtyard, with white marble terraces leading to a gate beyond.
Halls around a broad courtyard.
A stone causeway leading across a vast courtyard to a great hall on a three-tiered white marble terrace, with visitors in the foreground.
The way to one of the great halls.

There was something special about being inside a place I had heard about for so long.

A long two-storey hall with golden roofs and red walls above a white marble terrace, with temporary barriers along the courtyard in front.
Golden roofs and red walls.
A square pavilion with a pointed golden roof on top of white marble terraces, with a wide stone staircase and a carved dragon head spout at the corner.
Marble terraces and stairways.

I remember looking around and simply enjoying the experience. The scale of everything was extraordinary, and I loved every bit of being there.

We weren’t trying to memorise every historical detail or the names of all the buildings. For me, it was enough to walk through the palace grounds and take in the surroundings.

A huge open square of grey paving bordered by long red walls with golden-roofed gates, with rows of benches and a queue of visitors in the distance.
A vast open square.
The same red walls and gates across the square, with two visitors in the foreground.
Red walls and gates.

Exploring With a Young Child

Of course, visiting somewhere so enormous with a young child meant there was plenty of walking, and not all of it could be done on his own two feet.

Our son walked whenever he could, but when he became tired, we took turns carrying him.

Sometimes I carried him for a while before putting him down to walk again or passing him to my wife when my arms needed a rest.

It was tiring at times, but that’s part of travelling with a young child.

A small child in a blue jacket walking hand in hand between two adults with backpacks, seen from behind, along a tree-lined avenue busy with visitors.
Walking hand in hand.
Two adults and a small child crossing a wide courtyard towards a gate hall with golden roofs, seen from behind.
Crossing a courtyard.

Looking back at the photographs, I can see him walking through the palace grounds alongside us, with these enormous historical buildings all around him.

A long stone causeway between white marble balustrades, crossing a vast courtyard towards a gate, with a small figure in blue in the middle distance and halls on either side.
One of the vast courtyards.

I wonder how much he remembers of that day now. At the time, he was simply experiencing it with us, even if he couldn’t have understood the history or significance of everything we were seeing.

Through the Palace Grounds

As we continued north through the Forbidden City, we passed more courtyards, decorated gateways and gardens.

A gateway decorated with green and yellow glazed tiles in a red wall, opening onto a long paved passage between red walls.
A decorated gateway.
A wooden hall with a golden tiled roof and red columns behind bronze animal statues, among them a deer, beside an old cypress with a carved base.
Bronze statues before a hall.

There were rock formations, pavilions and quieter corners that felt quite different from the enormous ceremonial halls earlier in the walk.

A garden of tall, weathered limestone rocks among old trees and shrubs, with a golden roof showing above the trees.
A rock garden among old trees.
A craggy limestone rock formation behind a stone balustrade, surrounded by thick green foliage.
Weathered rock formations.
A round pavilion with a two-tiered golden roof and red latticed walls on a white marble base, surrounded by clipped hedges and trees.
A round pavilion in a garden.
A pond with lily pads and orange goldfish, reflecting the white marble balustrade and red columns of a pavilion.
Goldfish in a lily pond.

Eventually, we made our way towards the northern end of the complex.

The photographs show a view towards the hill beyond the palace and, later, one of the corner towers reflected in the surrounding moat.

Through a massive open gateway studded with door nails, a crowd of visitors and, beyond them, Jingshan Hill crowned by the triple-roofed Wanchun Pavilion under a clear blue sky.
Looking north through the gate towards Jingshan Hill and the Wanchun Pavilion.
A many-roofed corner tower on the palace wall, reflected in the still water of the moat, with willows along the bank.
A corner tower reflected in the moat.

It was a lovely way to finish our visit, seeing the palace from a different perspective after spending the morning walking through it.

An Experience Worth Remembering

Of everything we saw that morning, what stayed with me most was the feeling of being there.

The Forbidden City was enormous, beautiful and unlike anywhere I had visited before. I had been excited about seeing it, and the experience didn’t disappoint.

Even now, years later, I remember how happy I was when our guide got us past that long queue, and how extraordinary it felt to walk through the palace grounds with my wife and son.

And our day was far from over.

After leaving the Forbidden City, we climbed back into the minibus and headed north towards Mutianyu, where another unforgettable experience was waiting for us at the Great Wall.