Part 3 of 3Austria, September 2025

Salzburg in the sun, and back to Vienna

A grassy hilltop under a bright blue sky, with people standing and watching as paragliders drift out over a wide valley far below.
Paragliders above Salzburg, 11 September.

11 September

Salzburg

The sun showed up. Everything else followed.

A red, white and grey city bus showing route 151 to Gaisberg, parked on cobbles under trees in bright morning sun.
The bus to the Gaisberg, 11 September.

Paragliding from the Gaisberg answered a question I had been carrying for a while: when was the last time you did something for the first time?

Soaring over the city, the river and the rooftops spread out below, the Alps in every direction. It is one of those experiences that is genuinely hard to describe without reaching for clichés, so I will just say this: do it if you ever get the chance.

Salzburg and its plain seen from high on a grassy slope, with mountains along the horizon and pine trees on the right.
Salzburg from above, 11 September.
A cup of coffee and a slice of apple strudel dusted with sugar on a wooden picnic table, with people standing on a hilltop meadow beyond.
Coffee and strudel, 11 September.

When was the last time you did something for the first time?

The Salzburg Card earned its keep for the rest of the day. Cable car up Untersberg next, another mountain across the valley.

A green valley of fields, forest and small towns seen from high on a mountainside, with a long ridge of hills under scattered cloud.
Untersberg, 11 September.
A gravel path running along a grassy, rocky ridge to a summit cross, with the far side lost in white cloud.
Untersberg, 11 September.

I spent an hour absorbing a view that kept revealing more the longer I looked at it. Then Hellbrunn’s trick fountains, where the staff spend their days surprising visitors with unexpected jets of water.

A vaulted grotto room decorated with shells, painted panels and ornate frames, with doorways leading into darker grottoes beyond.
Hellbrunn, 11 September.
The yellow façade of Hellbrunn Palace with a double outdoor staircase, under a dark, heavy sky.
Hellbrunn, 11 September.

Everyone, regardless of age, responds the same way. Hands down the best day of the trip. The kind of day that justifies the slow ones.

12 September

Salzburg · Vienna

An early walk in Salzburg before the city woke up. The streets that had felt crowded all week were empty and entirely different, quieter and more themselves. A good farewell to a place that rewarded patience.

Three hours on the train back to Vienna. Book, old music, the Austrian countryside rolling past. Small houses with gardens dotting the landscape, the kind you file away under “someday”. No major disruptions. No rushing. The trip ended the way it was supposed to begin.

A few vodkas at the hotel to mark it. Austria turned out better than planned, which is usually what happens when the plan is loose enough to let things in.

A tall modern tower with an irregular pattern of dark and lit windows, standing over an open paved square at dusk.
Vienna, 12 September.

Seven days in Austria taught me what I went there to learn, just not in the way I expected. Slowing down is not something that happens because you book a trip and intend to. It sneaks up on you. On a boat on the Danube, in an empty street at 7am, somewhere above Salzburg with nothing between you and the valley below.

Thank you, Austria. Until we meet again.